Monday, June 15, 2009

The Dusun Lotud ‘Milamak’ Wedding

Living in heterogeneous and culturally diverse Sabah gives you the opportunity to witness numerous customs of more than 30 ethnic races and wedding ceremonies – modern as well the traditional ones.

Count yourself fortunate if you have the opportunity to attend a Dusun Lotud wedding. The fascinating wedding ceremonies and festivities give expatriates as well as locals a unique outlook to gain insight into the Dusun Lotud culture and social ethinicity. The Dusun Lotuds are indigenous ethnic group residing in Tuaran district and also known as the Kadazandusuns.

I was lucky that I got to witness a re-enactment of a full Dusun Lotud ‘Milamak’ wedding ceremony at a cultural village. Even though it was not an actual wedding, but I was informed that this ceremony is still strongly practised in the Dusun Lotud community... so it was like attending a real wedding anyway.

Before getting married, the family of the groom-to-be had to ‘monunui’ or visit the family of the bride-to-be to seek permission for both bride and groom-to-be to get married. At the same time, both families had to discuss on the ‘berian’(dowry) which normally comprise of money, water-buffalo or cow (to be slaughtered on the wedding day) and other items that are requested by the family of the bride-to-be. During the ‘monunui’, the groom-to-be and bride-to-be were officially engaged and exchanged rings while being witnessed by their family members. A week later, the couple got married. However, nowadays most couples want to wait for six months up to one year before they get married so that they will have ample of time to prepare for their weddings.

On the wedding day, the bride wore the complete Dusun Lotud traditional costume which I think was the most comprehensive gear that I had ever seen... especially on a bride! The ‘Sukub Kopio’ is a long-sleeved black cotton tailored blouse with red tinobogi (needle-weaving technique of interlaced flanel stitches) at the seams, a curvilinear motif of a bamboo shoot with sequins decorates the cuffs while gold threads are couched onto the fabric. ‘Tombuku’ (golden coins) sewn onto the ‘Sukub Kopio’ are used to button it up. A very long colourful cloth was wrapped around the bride’s upper body part – from chest to abdomen. The knee-length black cotton tube skirt is called the ‘Gonob’. Around the hips is a strip of tinobogi with a panel of Linangkit’, a hand-woven cloth using multi colour threads, sewn from the waist down. The gonob is held up by a strip of white cloth or what they call the ‘haboi’. Sometimes, a batik sarong is worn over the short ‘gonob’ to avoid exposure of the legs especially when sitting down. The bride’s accessories included the ‘Lilimbo’ (red wide girdle of interconnected loops of split rattan worn around the hips), ‘Loti’ (a chain of small silver coins placed in the middle of the ‘Lilimbo’, ‘Porotina’ (silver belt with a diamond-shaped clasp), Sigar (a headband with red rattan rims. The narrow band is decorated with rectangular or square plates of embossed goldleaf or modern substitute), ‘Simpai’ (hollow upper arm bracelets made of embossed silver), ‘Lansung’ (hollow and embossed silver anklets), ‘Mandapun’ (stiff ornamental collar of red cotton with embossed and leaves-shaped gold or silver plate), ‘Siwot’ (ornament for the head which is stuck into the hairbun and consists of four bunches of red cloth and black cock feathers with strings of silver-green beads with bits of red cloth dangle over the forehead from the first bunch, and downward from the last one) and ‘Karo’ (a necklace made of mostly long barrel beads of glass, shell and carnelian. In between these are hollow silver beads and concave ornaments over a wooden base. Usually two or three karo are worn together with cone-shaped ornaments which are arranged symmetrically with the points downwards). As I said earlier, there are loads of knick-knacks and details when it comes to the bride’s costume, but it contributed to the uniqueness of the whole wedding ceremony.


Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Bride getting reading on the wedding day

When the bride was all ready, her mother and bridesmaid escorted her to the groom’s house, while other family members and relatives followed from behind. At the front yard of the groom’s house, a group of elderly women or priestesses were standing in two straight lines. Three other priestess were holding a large piece of cloth in open semi-circle and the groom with his bestman were standing inside it, on a piece of bamboo mat.


Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Bride arrived at the groom's house

Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Bride and groom standing in the semi-circle cloth with priestesses

The groom was clad in full Dusun Lotud costume which consisted of ‘sukub’ (a black cotton shirt with similar decoration as the women's blouse), ‘Binandus’ (black trousers with a square piece of ‘linangkit’ at the back just under the waist) and ‘Sundi’ (a dastar or head gear). Similar to the bride, groom also wore some accessories such as the ‘Supu’ which is a silver chain with an attached round silver tobacco container (worn around the waist) and two pieces of Ulungkaris’ (also known as ‘Tatarapan’) which are actually the normal keris or dagger, a stiff red cotton belt with a big chunk of embossed oval and flowery-shaped gold plate and a ‘karo’.

So back to the ceremony! As soon as the bride arrived, all of the priestesses started to ‘Bandak’ or sing some continuous Dusun Lotud rhyme which sounded more like mantra to me. I was told that the ‘Bandak’ is just like chanting but most commonly used during a wedding ceremony to bless the newlyweds.



Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Groom's mother welcomed the bride


The groom’s mother welcomed the bride by placing a ‘Karo’ around her neck as a symbolic of giving her approval and warm welcome to the bride as a new member of the family. The bride then stood next to the groom inside the semi-circle cloth, facing the group of priestesses. The head of the priestesses started another round of ‘Bandak’ followed by the rest of the priestesses. Once they stopped, the family members at the ‘soriu’ or veranda played the gongs and ‘kulintangan’ (small sets of gongs) while the priestesses performed the traditional dance, ‘Sumayau’. Every movement of the hands was in harmony with the rhythm of the gong music although the feet movements were slightly slower, looked like walking with very small steps in an unhurried manner.


Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Priestesses doing the 'bandak' - blessing the newlywed


Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Priestesses performed the 'Sumayau'



Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Family members or relatives playing the kulintangan and gong

Once the gong music stopped, the head of the priestess led the other priestesses to enter the groom’s house while reciting the ‘milamak’ which they regarded as pristine blessing and a custom way of inviting the bride and groom into the house. The newlywed couple and their family members then entered the house and proceeded to the wedding dais inside the house. Then, the bride and groom fed each other with two to three mouthful of steamed rice as a symbol of unity. They sat at the wedding dais for quite a while so that relatives and friends can have a closer look at the newlyweds... and some even wanted to take photographs of the couple as well as themselves with the couple, for remembrance.

Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Newlyweds at the wedding dais

All in a sudden, the village’s elders started the ‘Bandak’ at the veranda and followed by the priestesses. This marked the beginning of the ‘Moninjau’ or ice-breaking session with the elders. While the bride and bridesmaid waited at the wedding dais, the groom and his bestman brought two plates of steamed rice and walked out to the veranda to sit with the elders and priestesses. They sat down facing the elders and placed the rice in front of them. The elders put the ‘kirai’ (hand-rolled cigarettes derived from dried leaves) and ‘sigup’ (tobacco) on a plate and poured the ‘bahar’ (dark orange coconut wine) into a bowl which are placed in the middle – between them and the groom. Then, a family member served some fried and boiled ‘ikan basung’ or sardines which were also placed in the middle. The elders told the groom and his bestman to start eating while they did the ‘Bandak’ together with the priestesses – a blessing for the groom to start a new life as a married man. Once they had finished eating, the elders started to drink the ‘bahar’ and passed the bowl around among themselves included the groom and and his bestman. After that, everyone joined in the feast.

Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Groom with the elders
Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: The groom and his bestman had their meals while the elders and priestesses were doing the 'Bandak'
Photo by Karen Tukalan-Pinn: Passing around the 'bahar' between the elders and the groom

I was informed by one of the elders that normally the feast would last for the whole day and night. Some of the Dusun Lotud families prefers to have the wedding and feast at the bride’s house first, where the groom will go there on the wedding day and stay for a week. Then a week later the wedding ceremony continues as they escort the newlyweds to the groom’s house. There are also big number of families who combine both traditional with western wedding culture. But whatever it is, I must say that I was totally astounded by the whole process of the Dusun Lotud ‘Milamak’ wedding ceremony and it was an honour to experience it. This wedding ceremony is totally unique and one of its kind as it can only be seen in Sabah.


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Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Big Bikers Roared Around Sabah






After a successful event last year, it was time for the Harley Owners Group Sabah Chapter, also known as HOG, to have another rally around Sabah.






Last year, HOG collaborated with a five-star resort in Kota Kinabalu and raised RM71,433 for charity through the auction of a 105th anniversary special edition Harley (the “Ultra Classic Electra Glide”), a lady’s leather jacket, a man’s leather jacket, a custom-printed T-shirt, two special pewter plaques and a Harley Davidson staff shirt during a charity dinner at the resort.

Proceeds of the auction will be donated to two local charity organizations namely Seri Mengasih Centre and Beringgis Children’s Home and to “Care For Children” a corporate social responsibility programme supported by the Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts group.

It was interesting to hear when Choo Kai Mun, the president of HOG Sabah Chapter, said that the rally was not only meant for members of HOG to get together but also to play their role in corporate social responsibility and give something back to the community.

“As Harley-Davidson owners we also rally to discover new rides, make new friends, and visit with old friends. We laugh, we party, and we find new adventures. When motorcyclists are welcomed by a biker friendly area we know we have a unique opportunity to be a part of a special motorcycle rally experience,” Choo added.







This year, the nine-day 6th Malaysia National HOG Rally commenced from 16 to 24 May and brought together hundreds of Harley Davidson owners and enthusiast from all over Malaysia, Australia, Brunei, France, Indonesia, Macau, Singapore, Thailand and the United States of America. I would say that this year the HOG rally is living the bikers’ dreams - travelling the road less travelled where adventure looming around every bend and plethora of roads from Tawau, Semporna, Lahad Datu, Sandakan, Ranau, Kudat, Kota Belud to Kota Kinabalu.




The first day in Tawau was only for registration as well as briefing of the rules and regulations for the bikers. Numerous type of Harley Davidson bikes that you have never seen before were on display and each one of them had to be refueled and gone through the safety inspection followed by a welcome dinner hosted by the Tawau Town Council at Marco Polo Hotel.





It was an early start the next day, breakfast as early as 7:00 am. At 8:00 am, most of the bikers were festooned in memorabilia consisting of patches and badges sewn or pinned onto venerable leather jerkins and traditional biker wear, were getting ready for the flag off at Tawau Town Council. In groups, the bikers roared out of Tawau with their “thunderous rides” and rode along roads fringed by palm oil estates to Semporna where they had a transfer by fast boats to Mabul Island for lunch and check-in. After a long ride, the bikers spent the whole day in Mabul with just lazying around, swimming, snorkeling and even scuba dive at Sipadan, rated to be the world’s top five diving spots.




Since they had to spend two days in Mabul, the bikers took the opportunity to visit the sea gypsies - the Bajaus, in their temporary quarters on the island. HOG has also been actively involved in conserving the the environment. On the second day in Mabul, bikers who are also qualified divers took the live corals they found on land and planted them on the ocean bed. A commemorative plaque stated “HOG International has laid this bed of corals in its efforts for conservation of our seas” was securely placed on the bed of corals. This effort and activity was the first ever done by any bikers group and those corals will be monitored and maintained by the Malaysian Fisheries Department.


Another early morning on 19 May when the bikers had to rise at dawn and had breakfast at 6:00 am in order to catch the boat transfer to semporna at 7:00 am and then headed off to Sukau where they got on a river cruise down the Kinabatangan River to spot wildlife in their natural habitat. The cruise itself was an adventure as the cruise had to overtake river debris like logs, crocodiles and even dead bodies (yaiks!). Kinabatangan River is well known among the villagers because they managed to capture a huge crocodile that had feasted on six villagers a while ago. Well, you definitely do not want to fall into that river ever! At noon, the bikers stopped by at a riverside restaurant for lunch while enjoying the nature.




The following day, the bikers had to go through a long and winding road to the Borneo Rainforest Consevatory in Ranau. Sabah has the oldest rainforest that is more than million years old ... so back to Mother Nature again! Getting on a canopy walk at the Borneo Rainforest Conservatory enabled everyone to have a closer look of the oldest trees and a glimpse of Mount Kinabalu. Around 12:30 noon, the bikers group arrived at Kampung Luanti in Ranau, a place famous for “fish massage” among the locals as well as tourists. Everyone got into the stream where a school of fish would “attack” - biting or sucking on dried skins off the human bodies. I must say that those who are very ticklish may want to think twice before getting this infamous fish massage.
The villagers around were amazed when a group of bikers wearing black leather jackets on big motorbikes riding past them. Even when these bikers had lunch with the villagers, you can see that everyone was whispering and smiling – it was a rare experience for the villagers to be visited by a big group of bikers.




On the way to Kota Kinabalu, these bikers just could not resist to stop at the town of Nabalu for some photography sessions and they were lucky enough that they got a clear view of Mount Kinabalu in the background. That evening the bikers called it a day at a resort in the city... time to re-energize and relax the cramped muscles.

After breakfast the next day, everyone had their gear on and was ready to hit the road – next destination was the tip of Borneo, Simpang Mengayau. Some part of the roads were gravel which made the journey a bit slow. However, they finally arrived at the tip of Borneo after three hours which was not too bad. A quick group photography session and they had to start moving to Kota Belud, the town of “Cowboys of the East” (The Bajau horsemen). The most interesting thing about a Bajau horseman is his horse or rather pony. It has its own costume and is more gaily dressed than the rider. Some of the bikers had the opportunity to ride on a horse and also water buffalo – a great experience for those who come from outside of Malaysia. On the way back to the city, they had a spectacular view of the Borneo sunset from the highland.


The next morning, the bikers roared out of the resort to the Monsopiad Cultural Village located in the district of Penampang, about 20 minutes away from the city. It is the only cultural village in Sabah built to commemorate the legendary Kadazan and head-hunter warrior – Monsopiad. A visit to the House of Skulls where more than 42 skulls are hung from the ceiling was one of the attractions in the village. The bikers decided to have their lunch at the cultural village while being entertained by live traditional dance performance. Then, they returned to the resort to freshen up and rest before they rode on their bikes again to the city council (Dewan Bandaraya Kota Kinabalu) that evening for dinner. The locals were welcomed to join in the bike games under floodlights simultaneously whilst the bikers enjoying their ‘tucker’... indeed a not-to-be-missed by the locals as they learned how to handle the bike, pick it up, take corners and much much more.





On the eight day, the bikers hit the road to Kiulu right after breakfast. It was a day for a white-water rafting adventure and trust me these bikers are not the faint-hearted kinds at all! After almost three hours of rafting along the rapid river, everyone finally reached the other end of the river...and a barbeque lunch was a perfect ending. Once reached the city, they headed to the port to arrange for shipments of their bikes then returned to the resort for a farewell dinner hosted by the Sabah Tourism Board.





After eight exhilarating days biking around Sabah, it was finally the end of the 6th HOG Rally! The HOG brothers and sisters reluctantly had to say goodbye to each other but took the friendships and memories home with them. For Harley Davidson fans who plan to join the group will have a year to polish and improvise their bikes for the next rally in May 2010.


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